Tim_M
1273
Overpowers the Case
Hi,
The essence of the Reverso is a function of 1) the rotating case and 2) the aspect ratio of the case (roughly a golden rectangle in the best examples).
Introducing a bracelet has no impact on the reversing case, but its visual mass detracts from the appeal of the case since there is less of a distinction between the lugs of the case and the beginning of the bracelet links. The result is a mass of metal that seems to blend seamlessly, and the true proportions of the case are buried.
Moreover, I feel as though the use of that horizontal-link bracelet reflects an ill-advised attempt to translate the look of period standouts (Royal Oak, Nautilus) that were designed in conjunction with their cases. Since the Reverso was not, adding this style of bracelet clashes with the vertical emphasis of the Reverso case and creates a jarring effect.
I will note that one instance in which the use of a bracelet on a Reverso worked reasonably well was the Gran'Sport line. The Gran'Sport bracelet's "brick road" link pattern, vertically-elongated links, and the integration with the case (three-prong links) worked to create a vertical emphasis and visual delicacy that is absent in the 80s equivalent.
While I still prefer the Gran'Sport on the rubber for practical and two-tone aesthetic reasons, its relative success with a bracelet (especially in SS) also highlights the importance of integrated design and parallel creation of a watch and bracelet. AP, Patek, Rolex, and our Gran'Sport serve as evidence. Adding a strap after the fact often works well aesthetically, but the reverse is rarely true.
Best,
Tim
How important a strap can be: The evidence with the Reverso.
Overpowers the Case
NOT JUST on a bracelet...
