Jaeger-LeCoultre

It was this year my 6th SIHH since I became a moderator and this year as every year as soon as I arrived at the SIHH I directly walked to the exterior windows of the Jaeger-LeCoultre exhibition to look at the novelties. I was very pleased with what I saw. I later realized that the two most appealing (to me) novelties where not even shown out there. I yet had to see them, or nearly.

Nearly because the most important new watch for Jaeger-LeCoultre this year, not in volume of production but in capacity to struck all minds attending, is a watch I saw earlier in 2011 but was asked to forget at that time. And as soon as I got into the booth and saw it again I was not just pleased, I was again caught!

I will not discuss here the details of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre a Sphérotourbillon as our friend Nicolas will explain it to us tomorrow in full details. Still I can say that I really love it, for its look and even much more for its concept.

The lobby was dedicated to the Sphérotourbillon but you had also to look at the ceiling to see the inspired decoration.

You can see below the cage of the Sphérotourbillon!

You can then see below the representation of the entire Sphérotourbillon calibre.

Clearly the Sphérotourbillon is a dual axis flying tourbillon. And a Duomètre!

You will notice the small seconds at 6.

Calibre 382 is very nicely finished like all Duomètre calibres. Perhaps even better than the Chronographe and the Quantième Lunaire.

The watch is totally wearable everyday, the size is reasonable as is thickness.

The watch is pictured below on our friend Patrice's wrist. I just forgot to take pictures while it was on mine! I wonder why!

The right part reminds of a Duomètre à Grande Sonnerie, not a bad counterpart.

This watch is clearly made for precision, with amazing technical specs. The blue cylindric spiral is like a heart beating.

The blue spiral is reserved for the platinum version while the pink gold one will have a white spiral.

I can tell you that this watch was a hit in terms of interest. This is not the first dual axis tourbillon but it is a first with the combination of a very precise regulating device, a dual axis tourbillon really built for precision, and the advantage of the "dual wing" Duomètre concept that separates the regulating device and the indications which can't interfere on the precision and still can be set to the second.

This watch should be a milestone in terms of requirements for all collectors of chronometric superwatches!

We had the pleasure to attend a short press conference with Jerome Lambert and actor Clive Owen on the subject of the Duomètre. Clive Owen is seemingly a great fan of the Duomètre series. I didn't dine with him but was reported that he spent all night (till 4 AM) talking about this range.

He was seemingly quite happy to be there and not rushed at all to leave !

If like me you think you may not get a Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon in allocation, there was another new Duomètre that Nicolas already presented to us. The 40.5 mm Duomètre à quantième Lunaire is a nice move for those like me with a small wrist. The 42 mm is nice on my wrist but the 40.5 is even better.

Here is below the watch I took from Jerome's wrist. It went to another Jerome's wrist but alas went finally back to the former.

If the size is better IMO the watch is also better without the cut outs in the dial. They were supposed to help show and understand that while the seconds hands are stopped and reset the watch keeps running. The intent was good but IMO the result was not. Of course you may differ!

The calibre is the same and still as beautiful.

I love my vintage pieces but yes sometimes modern pieces can be even better, much better.

Nobody looks at car engines anymore, but watch calibres are the subject of another story.

The topside of the calibre is very nicely finished too.

The moon phase made a better impression on me this year. It seems to the same though.

We saw another appealing new round watch, a minute repeater in the Master Grande Tradition range.

It is the pink gold version of a platinum watch seen last year.

Jaeger-LeCoultre launches a new ladies' watch range named "Rendez-vous" (meaning "appointment") this year but I didn't see it.

I saw on the contrary a new ladies' Reverso fitted with a long strap in the old Hermès style, the Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin.

The case is made of pink gold and steel but alas you can't see it on my picture.

On the men's Reverso side we saw several new appealing models. There is particularly a skeleton Grande Ultra Thin (the ultra thin calibre is based on the 849 used in the real Master Ultra Thin 38mm) reviving the Reverso Platinum Number One seen years ago. This series in white gold is limited to 50 pieces.

The dial face is decorated with a very nice blue enamel rectangular indices rim.

On the opposite side of the spectrum you've already seen the stainless steel Reverso Grande Ultra Thin red on the net but it was our first opportunity to see it live.

Clearly this is a strong watch and not for the faint hearted! 

The red dial has a touch of class and exuberance at the same time.

The picture below will show you the glorious yellow hands and indices. This watch must be seen live to show its appeal.

There were two other men's Reverso models that were even more appealing to my taste.

We knew the white gold Grande Reverso with blue enamel dial, we discovered with great pleasure the white gold grey grained Grande Ultra Thin.

The « flinqué » version with blue enamel is limited to 50 pieces. The watch is larger than a Grande Ultra Thin (48.5x30 vs 46x27) but still easily wearable.

I was rushed to come to that watch below as it is my watch of the SIHH this year. You'll see that the grained soft grey dial is just gorgeous with its blue indices and heat blued hands. The design takes its inspiration in a historical Reverso model.

The watch is like perfect, except for its white gold case that will reserve it for some happy few. They will have the select pleasure to look at its small seconds (a first in the Grande Ultra Thin) beat the time.

Here below the watch is on my wrist that it should have never left.

This watch is the 7th version of Grande Reverso Ultra Thin in two years (8^th if we count the Tribute to 1931 US) and my favourite. It perfectly shows the greatness of this case design, clearly the best since the GT in 1991 (and maybe even better).

Don't try to forget it, there's not a bad angle to look at it.

Like all plain dial Reverso Grande Ultra Thin it's not limited. I'm glad that Jaeger-LeCoultre choose this option.

There was one more new Reverso this year, available in stainless steel or pink gold.

The Grande Reverso Calendar (48.5x29.5) is a triple calendar with moon phase, a first in a Reverso if we except a dubious Reverso perpetual calendar showing the same kind of dial.

The new watch stands clearly proud and deserving side by side with a historical piece. The design is modern but simply beautiful and I bet that this beauty will be lasting.

This Calendar is fitted with a transparent back and the calibre 843 shown is based on the 822 launched in 1991 in the GT.

To end up this selection of new watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre for 2012, here are two Atmos clocks that are not really totally new but quite appealing though.

The Atmos Réédition 1934 is close to the Réédition 1930 already seen, with this time a marble base. The clock is really superb.

Our final piece the Atmos Marqueterie shows "The Kiss" from Gustav Klimt. This is a piece of art, a piece of superior craft and a piece of horology. 10 pieces will be produced.

I hope you'll enjoy these novelties as much as I did (or at least a few). I've not shown all new models and you'll certainly see other pieces in the next days and weeks.

Best

Dje