Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre aims at positioning itself as the most inventive manufacture of high horology. In a world of marketing such positioning can often be doubtful but in the world of horology that we all here like and that fascinates us Jaeger-leCoultre may well be entitled to think so.

The most inventive manufacture, so well, Jerome Lambert adds that it is not to the credit of the management, but essential to the 177 years of history of the "Grande Maison". For long it was inventive mainly - but not exclusively - through its calibres, having created more than a thousand of them. We cannot doubt now and it has been the case for a long while that Jaeger-LeCoultre's inventive spirit is also visible through many watches.

We must here testify another example of inventive spirit in a new watch pushing a bit further the limits of the art.

The birth of a legend

In fact the story should not be begun at this year's SIHH but a bit further back last fall. You can see below a picture of the now named mount Antoine LeCoultre. This still recently virgin mount was climbed to the top by an expedition of three men outfitted by Jaeger-LeCoultre who attained the summit the 22nd of october 2009. The three men are Stephane Schaffter, Little Karim Balti and Apa Sherpa.

Jobo  i.e. Mount Antoine LeCoultre

The three men brought three watches with them, an original 1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic, a Master Compressor Extreme LAB, and the new Master Compressor Extreme LAB2 Tribute to Geophysic, subject of this article.

The new watch is presented as a Tribute to Geophysic as it is intended for explorers like the Geophysic was intended for scientists and  explorers  and as the original Geophysic was the first shockproof, antimagnetic and water resistant defined watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the first rugged sports watch of the "Grande Maison". We'll see that the new watch is supposed to be the modern interpretation of this credo.

Stephane Schaffter

Obviously the fact that these three watches were worn in the harsh conditions of the Himalayan climb and brought back in original condition is a perfect testimony of their relevance in such adventures.  Jaeger-leCoultre watches are also known for their excellent reliability, such performance being checked through the 1000 Hours of various tests at the manufacture for all watches issued. An excellent accuracy is also required by the testing done, and even more so in the case of this watch by the Tribute to Geophysic principle.

A part of Mount Antoine LeCoultre

So the three climbers named their mountain by the name of Antoine LeCoultre, founder of the manufacture in 1833. This mountain will certainly remain linked in our minds to the accomplishments of the Extreme LAB series. The fact that the new watch is named "Master Compressor" may also signify that all Extreme LAB watches will be intended for extreme conditions of use even if this new watch is on the contrary not equipped with a compression key!

I would have been pleased to see someday a Reverso Extreme LAB or a Duometre Extreme LAB but I guess the path chosen is more towards mastering the difficult elements. At least I'm glad to see that the product definition is clear.

Naming a mountain

Stephane Schaffter was certainly an excellent choice of representative of the manufacture for this mission, not just because he succeeded but also because of his past and potential. Born in 1953 he conquered the legendary Bonatti du Petit Dru pillar in the Mont Blanc mountain range at the age of 16. He then settled in Geneva from where he organized many expeditions in the Himalaya and the Andes Cordillera. He is among the few climbers who realized the ascent of the K2 without oxygen bottles.

Stephane Schaffter and Jerome Lambert

His two partners are also references in their field. Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa, known as Apa Sherpa, is a chief sherpa referred as "super sherpa". He has 19 successful expeditions behind him and holds the world record for Everest ascensions. In 2009 he took part in the Eco Everest Expedition to raise global awareness of climate change and founded the Apa Sherpa Foundation to support educational and economic development projects in Nepal.

Little Karim Balti was born at the heart of the Karakoram mountain range, where the K2 is. He spent more than three decades climbing and accompanying many expeditions. He is now nicknamed "king of Karakoram".

Please note the origin

The new watch these three men brought with them on the ascent is a concept watch. It is a concept in the sense that it is aimed at testing new solutions for tomorrow's watches. We don't know everything about this watch yet, but enough to share. For instance the calibre was developed with the objective to have shorter axes for all mobiles with as many things as possible on the same plan. This objective being linked to a better reliability in extreme conditions.

Patrice's wrist

We find back the sandwich structured Extreme LAB case with a movement container made of TiVan15, a special titanium and vanadium alloy used exclusively by Jaeger-LeCoultre, and a chassis made either of TiVan15 or pink gold depending of the two versions offered. The TiVan15 is presented as 15% more resistant than traditional titanium to traction.

The bezel is made in black zirconium ceramic.

Neither Offshore nor RM, true JLC!

The right side chronograph pushers are made of TiVan15 or pink gold and have a rubber cover on their L-shaped security arms for better comfort and ergonomics. The arms also protect the zirconium ceramic crown.

Sweet

The crown is used as a selector pusher to choose between three positions: the first is for winding of the barrel by turning the crown; the second is for setting the second time zone and the date; the third is for setting the time. This selector system avoids the traditional need for pulling the crown that is a common source of reliability problems and allows a 100 meter water resistance without any compression key.

Extreme-LAB

I can do with the "Extreme LAB" inscription on the bezel. In fact I like it. I would have preferred it to be alone, without the "Compressor" inscription at 12, especially as the watch has no compression key.

Extreme-Gold

On a pure visual point of view I have a personal preference for the pink gold version. I think that's because of the red colour of some parts on the titanium version. Still I don't understand why the pink gold version is not fitted with the antimagnetic properties of the titanium version.

As a Tribute to Geophysic the titanium Extreme LAB2 is indeed fitted with an escapement consisting of antimagnetic silicium parts (all parts of the escapement plus the hairspring). Furthermore the going train (till the hands) is made in a special alloy that greatly reduces the threat of the calibre being magnetized. All this allows a resistance to 240 Gauss, that is 4 times what is required by the ISO norm 9010 for an antimagnetic wristwatch.

The titanium Extreme LAB2 remains less resistant on that field than the 1958 Geophysic that was resistant to 600 Gauss, but the Geophysic was a simple watch with only two apertures in its case-within-case (hands and crown) while the Extreme LAB2 would have required nine case-within-case openings that would have not allowed such a resistance. So the choice was consequently made to work on the components' materials and not to make a case-within-case.

Rich hours

The silicium escapement of the titanium Extreme LAB2 also doesn't need lubrication and allows low running friction and lightness. That makes the titanium Extreme LAB2 a clear winner above the pink gold one in my mind!

Black and pink

The watch face shows an absence of dial. We have seen more and more open dials in the last years and this watch has no dial left in fact. Still it works well on the wrist in terms of reading. I had already noticed how they could do well on that field with the Master Perpetual Calendar skeleton. This very technical face brings also a lot to the concept of the watch.

Content behind extreme face

The back shows two rotating rectangular pieces, marked with "Jaeger-LeCoultre" and "Master Compressor". These two pieces can be unlocked to allow the easy and fast change of the strap. The strap itself is a work of art aimed at positioning perfectly the watch on the arm and protecting it at the same time. It seems very strong and comfortable. The production piece should be fitted with a double sided alligator strap like the pink gold piece shows. As it is easily changed I guess we will see several options offered.

Yes it's a round watch

The back shows a crossing bridge for the large balance wheel of 11.5 mg cm2 with variable inertia screws. The beat rate is 28 800 vph. Such bridge construction was already used in the Hometime calibre (seen last year in the Grande Reverso 976). There is also a protection device for limitation of the hairspring movement.

The back also shows the column wheel for the chronograph. This chronograph is equipped with a vertical clutch.

Strangely readable

The face shows the time (hours and minutes), a little second at nine in the middle of the chronograph hour counter, a date at three, a second time zone at six, the central second hand of the chronograph, a chronograph instantaneous digital minute counter at noon, a crown selector indicator at the left of the date and a circular power reserve indicator from three back to nine on the upper part of the "dial".

Is that clear

You may notice that the watch is easily readable from a normal reading distance but becomes hardly readable when you get too close ,at least for me!

PVDized calibre

The case is large, measuring 46.8 mm with a height of 16.5 mm. All that is needed to fit a 33.8 mm calibre with a thickness of 9.8 mm. Still this watch fitted my wrist comfortably (and that was the same for Patrice as you've seen). Such avant-garde watches can do well with sizes that would be pretty ridiculous for more classical pieces.

Fitting my wrist

The titanium version that finally appears below is certainly much lighter in these conditions than the pink gold one.

You can see on the left side of the case a special lever that allows to stop the permanent seconds hand. When you set the central hour and minute hands with the crown that doesn't stop the calibre and seconds hand to avoid affecting the precision of the watch. So if you need to set the seconds hand you can stop it independently by sliding up and pressing the lever. The hand starts again when you release the lever.

Sporting titanium

The titanium version is obviously more sporting looking. If only it could be finally released without the Compressor indication it would be perfect for my taste.

Red hot

In fact after an initial shock I'm finally quite appealed by this watch. It's really innovative, modern, rugged, and IMO could well out fashion many other avant-garde watches.

I love that case

I would get rid of the red stitching and panels on the strap and would love to get an all black leather.

My kind of sport

This new calibre 780/781 is certainly the first chapter of a new large family. Its 566 parts count (for calibre 781 in the titanium version) shows how complicated it is, and especially how advanced it is. I don't see another modern and rugged chronograph calibre of such appeal. Split second chronographs may be more complicated, they are certainly not as rugged. The Duometre a Chronographe shows another very interesting calibre but definitely not intended for such use.

Adjustable buckle

The buckle above is a last detail to show how this watch was made as a concept, as a way to explore new ways of doing things. It is adjustable in length to allow a better comfort when you need an extra mm.

Not mine yet alas

I know that this watch will not be at every one's taste. It is at mine! The watch is far more accessible than the first Extreme LAB, being priced closer to twenty per cent of the price of its predecessor. The technical specifications are outstanding and appealing. It has IMO a great potential to become a hit among those who like avant-garde products, especially when made by a long established and respected manufacture.

But what do you think?

Dje