Review of my Master Control Automatic:

Oct 18, 2007,12:05 PM
 

Well, as you can tell, I like it.




Introduction

I have been on TZ for over 2 years and have over 2500 posts.  Came here with nothing significant, purchased an Archimede Pilot, and then nothing for well over a year.  However, for a long time, I had been yearning for something nice…finally, I scratched the itch in the middle of September 2007.  Realize that I am inexperienced with watches in general (this is my second mechanical watch ever!), so keep that in mind.

 

So I introduce and (attempt to!) review my:

 

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Control Automatic (in stainless with an alligator strap with double-folding deployant, reference number 139 84 20 per the 2007 catalog)

Movement

I would argue that this watch is all about the movement (JLC Calibre 899(.  Obviously an in-house movement and obviously exceptional quality.  Like a lot of simple, but hi-end mechanical watches, the front might look a little plain, but flip it over and you are hit my a beautiful and complex mechanical machine that defines what you have.  Every detail of the movement is wonderful (especially when considering what this watch costs).  22C gold osolator weight on the rotor, the perfectly-executed lettering engraved on the various parts of the movement, the blued screws, and everything else. 

 

I went over the entire movement (and watch) with a 7X loupe and saw no defects.  This is not to say that it could not have been finished to a higher degree – but everything they did was FLAWLESS (no chips, dings, or other flaws from less than perfect construction and assembly).

 

Oh, and lets not forget about the little things like the ceramic ball bearings, 4-screw balance (adjustable), and the ‘1000 hours of testing’.  This is more than a pretty face.

 

This movement is better than this watch deserves.  It is an absolute beauty, and it is very advanced as well.

Case / Crystal / Crown

The case is stainless steel and is entirely polished to a mirror-like finish.  While the shape is simple, it is very elegant.  There are some nice details like the outside of the lugs on the front of the watch are ‘filed off’ at a 45-degree angle and there is a nice line separating the bezel from the rest of the case.  Simple, but someone put a lot of time into designing AND building it.

 

The sapphire crystal is also very nice.  There is the slightest dome to it, maybe 1mm of gain from the edge to the middle.  Small things that make a big difference.  The movement is viewed through the transparent case back which is on a stainless steel frame that is held on with 4 screws (this is not a dive watch!) – it is also where the serial number and other information is carried

 

The crown is small in diameter and fairly long.  It has the ‘JL’ logo on the end.  One thing I do not like is there is ribbing on the crown for traction, and it tends to dig into your wrist or top of your hand if the watch rides down.  This could have been solved by rounding off this ribbing so it was not as sharp.

Dial / Hands

Like the movement, I scrutinized the face with a 7X loupe and found NOTHING that was not 100% perfect.  The 6, 9, and 12 as well as the remaining hour markers are razor sharp and polished mirror-smooth – they catch and reflect the light beautifully.  Same for the hour and minute hand.  The second hand is blued and looks like its been ‘melted’ so that the corners and edges are ever so slightly rounded.  We are talking tenths or hundredths of a millimeter here – it is stunning under a loupe and looks great otherwise.  This is not the sort of detail I was expecting from a watch like this.

 

The dial itself is silver and has a sunburst pattern (but does not look dated like a lot of older watches do, not sure how to describe it) and has black markers and the JLC name and logo.  No imperfections under the loupe.  The date display is legible considering the small size of the numbers, and is slightly off-white – and looks good.

 

The lume material is very subtle…but pretty much worthless.  Just make sure to carry your cell phone if you need to tell time in the dark.

Strap / Buckle / Bracelet

First, a thank you to the gorgeous alligator that gave his or her life to provide this exquisite strap to me.  The blown color is just right (like a sun-faded dark brown) and the brown thread is just the right color to blend in (that was no mistake).  Whoever built this strap got things lined up just right so the grain was in the right places.

 

The double deployant is very well finished, but not to the same standard as the watch itself.  The mechanical aspects are fine and it adjusts easily – however, they could have spent some more time on the finish work (there is a unpolished edge or two where the strap attaches to the deployant.  This is very minor and not a big deal – and it is possible it was done for a reason.

Accuracy

6 days and 8 seconds fast under a wide variety of circumstances.

 

Eat that Rolex!

 

Done.  Next question:

Comfort

As I mentioned, the crown can dig into your wrist.  Other than that, this is a light, thin, 40mm watch that will fit most everyone well.  I will wear it for 12-18 hours nonstop and never want to take it off.

Packaging / Manual

I have no experience with watch packing or manuals, so I will just report what I got.

 

Outer cardboard box, main box inside, which has some wood trim and metal pin so it closes well.  Simple white felt interior with the area to hold the watch in the middle.  There is a compartment in the bottom for the manual (fairly brief, bunch of languages I don’t speak :p )  Its going into my closet anyway, so I would rather the money be spent on the watch!

Overall Impression

I will admit – I had lofty expectations for this watch.  I have thought about it for almost 2 years and seen pictures of it over and over.  Despite this, I have only seen it ONCE in the flesh at a watch store, then I ordered it.

 

Happily, it was better than I expected.  The details in the design, the fit and finish, the accuracy, were all better than I could have ever hoped for.  When you factor in the price (and street price), you quickly realize this is and outstanding bargain (most similar watches with in-house movements will cost 2-5x as much for a prestigious brand).

 

At the end of the day.  This is a wrist watch.  You wear it on your wrist and it tells you the time (and date).  If it does not do those well, it’s a failure (this is a watch that is meant to be worn, not a collectors item).  This watch does all those things well – and of course, looks great in the process – be it under a 7X loupe or from across the room.

 

Considering the price, functionality, etc., I would rate this watch a 9/10 (points off for the crown design and worthless lume material).

 

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edited to fix post formatting

 

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2007-10-18 14:34:49


More posts: Jaeger LeCoultreMaster Control Automatic

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Formatting got messed up...

 
 By: canonken : October 18th, 2007-12:06

Beautiful review and watch!>>>

 
 By: amanico : October 18th, 2007-20:55
Thanks for sharing! Nicolas

Thanks!

 
 By: canonken : October 18th, 2007-22:59

Such a beautiful watch...

 
 By: sclamb : October 19th, 2007-02:39

No more to say?

 
 By: Dje : October 21st, 2007-12:52

aligator?

 
 By: bensenise : May 18th, 2009-00:13
"First, a thank you to the gorgeous alligator that gave his or her life to provide this exquisite strap to me. " the strap is leather (from a cow).

No, it is alligator.

 
 By: canonken : May 18th, 2009-08:45
How did you come up with cow? Maybe the backing is cow leather, but the strap says alligator and needs CITES certification to be imported. It is also $300 to replace.