Definitively a nice looking watch

Feb 11, 2013,02:40 AM
 

This watch has about everything I like in a watch from a aesthetic perspective.

I am a bit disappointed that the movement is the (rather deceptive) cal 849, especially after looking back at the picture of the 1907 cal 145, that demonstrates that ultra-thin-ness is even greater when achieved in large diameters.
With its movement know-how and CAD/CAM skills, I am certain JLC could have fabricated a modern genuinely utrathin movement to complement the great work done on the case, and the 849 is 20 years old (or even 60 years old if you consider its direct predecessor the 803)

Talking of the case, while I find it very nice, I think that using the term 'coin edge' (boite couteau) is wrong on that watch as you can clearly see that there is a (1-2mm high) flat area on the edge of the case.
A true knife edge should be just what it says: shaped as a knife. Your illustration of the watch with the cal 145 is a perfect example of what a knife edge is.
I have one such 'knife edge' PW, and I can open a letter or cut paper with it. I strongly doubt you could do it with this jubile.

Now, on the Jubilee issue, I think I addressed it already but 180 years is 'just' an anniversary, it is certainly not a Jubilee. The last Jubilee was 5 years ago, and the next one is in 20 years !

Having said that, it seems to be a great watch, one that I would certainly like on my wrist.

I just regret that the marketing pushes it a bit too far by pimping it with wrong superlatives, and that the great watch case cannot be made even greater by having an ultrathin movement in line with the promise the case suggests.

On a last note, I am also surprised that the (to me very obvious) visual linkage with the (real) Jubile 125 ref 2233 has not been made in the PR as the MUTJ dial takes a lot of design clues from its ancestor:

Don't you see some ligneage ?

 

 

This message has been edited by Clavi on 2013-02-11 02:42:54 This message has been edited by Clavi on 2013-02-11 02:45:50

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Jaeger- Lecoultre SIHH 2013: The Master Ultra Thin Jubilé.

 
 By: amanico : February 11th, 2013-00:06
Who can still ignore that Ultra thin Watches are part of the Grande Maison Patrimony? Since the very early XXth Century, LeCoultre made some very thin watches, such as this superb Minute Repeater ( Cal 18 SMV ) produced circa 1920: Or the most famous Cal ...  

Another Splendid post..

 
 By: W72 : February 11th, 2013-01:14
Thank you for the comprehensive coverage of this wonderful piece. There are several reasons why I think this will be one of the most popular Ultra Thin so far. Firstly, this is really thin and with a 39mm diameter, it will further accentuate the thin prof... 

Definitively a nice looking watch

 
 By: Clavi : February 11th, 2013-02:40
This watch has about everything I like in a watch from a aesthetic perspective. I am a bit disappointed that the movement is the (rather deceptive) cal 849, especially after looking back at the picture of the 1907 cal 145, that demonstrates that ultra-thi...  

Must agree on a couple of points...

 
 By: watchme : February 11th, 2013-06:04
With today's CAD/CAM programs, JLC could have easily re-worked the 1907 mvt. Also, it isn't really a Jubilee. That being said, I do like the watch and look forward to seeing it in the metal. -Dean

Agreed on the dial of the 2233, which is very close to the MUT Jubilé.

 
 By: amanico : February 11th, 2013-06:54
And yes, a new UT movement, of a bigger diameter, ala Cal 145, would have been exceptional. But, as it is, it is stll a beautiful watch, with a lot of DNA. Thanks for your intresting input, Clavi, which doesn't surprise me as I know your weakness for thes... 

This post what I'v been waiting for, Thanks a lot

 
 By: AHMED.G : February 11th, 2013-02:46
Thanks Nicolas , great report & very informing I love the case , love dial, even the blue strap looks perfect (BUT) don't you think 880 a lot for limited about the strap I would like to have your advise , usually I replace the strap with shorter one, ... 

Well, I have the feeling that the 880 will go fast.

 
 By: amanico : February 11th, 2013-06:56
As for a shorter strap, do you mean thinner? If you had the lenght in mind, this all depends of the size of your wrist. Best, Nicolas

I meant a length

 
 By: AHMED.G : February 11th, 2013-07:02
my wrist kind of small

So, yes, you have no other choice to ask for a smaller one.

 
 By: amanico : February 11th, 2013-07:04
Which shouldn't be an issue... Any JLC Boutique will happily solve that for you. Best, Nicolas

Monsieur Nicolas, as always it is a delight to read your.....

 
 By: Sandgroper : February 11th, 2013-03:41
reviews which are beautifully written and illustrated, however, before giving my opinion on this subject I would like to add a DISCLOSURE, I have no position in the company above mentioned or the writer of the above mentioned article nor plans to initiate... 

In this case, I would noly see a manual movement.

 
 By: amanico : February 11th, 2013-07:01
A bigger one would have been great, but it would have required an all new manual movement. I well know the PP 5196P, as you know, whose calbire is not bigger than this Cal 849. I also see the VC Plat Patrimony. Among these 3, I think the JLC is the winner... 

Definitely one of the most awaited and...

 
 By: moc : February 11th, 2013-04:29
most commented piece of JLC2013 collection. An example of elegance and sobriety but with and extra kick due to the marvelous dial finish. The PT case is so well suited for a high end dressy watch,is a little jewel,and top 3 best of show from JLC I think(G... 

Totally agree with you MOC, totally, hope not to miss my....

 
 By: Sandgroper : February 11th, 2013-05:24
train next time:):) Ciao, Francois

Well, both the VC and the JLC are elegant and beautiful watches.

 
 By: amanico : February 11th, 2013-07:03
Still, the shape and the ultra thinness of the case are big pros for the JLC. Best, and thanks for your input, my friend. Nicolas

Thank you for this great report, Nicolas!

 
 By: blomman Mr Blue : February 11th, 2013-13:09
I find everything except the price very appealing! Understand Clavis point and do agree on them, but in my book this is a winner! The resemblance with the Ref 2233 is unmistakable. To be honest, the case shape is very close to the Ref 2233 in profile as w...  

I have the 34mm MUT and love it

 
 By: T Spoon : February 11th, 2013-19:10
This looks fantastic. They need an "add to cart" button at the e boutique.......

This is my second favourite JLC piece from SIHH 2013....

 
 By: Rhyzen : February 11th, 2013-19:24
.... after the Reverso Duo. It oozes pure class!

Thanks Nicolas.

 
 By: rovermark : February 12th, 2013-01:05
I'm glad you chose this as the second watch to report on. I've been wanting to see more pictures of it since the day it was announced. I really can't wait to see one in the metal. It is rare that I decide I have to own a watch without seeing it in the met... 

The side profile is a big asset of this watch. Spectacular.

 
 By: amanico : February 12th, 2013-13:47
See you soon in So Cal, my friend! Best, Nicolas

Worth to mark another ultrathin calibre

 
 By: izatis : February 12th, 2013-04:23
that was intermediate chain between cal. 803 (1.64 mm thickness) and cal. 849 (1.85 mm thickness) and appeared in ten years after cal. 803. 838/839 movements had the same 9 lines diameter (20.8 mm) and thickness 1.85 mm, the same layout but another design... 

Love this piece!

 
 By: Gary G : February 12th, 2013-21:37
Thanks for the great presentation, Nico -- I agree that this was the top JLC watch of the show! Best, Gary

I can only agree on your conclusion - we have a WINNER

 
 By: ChristianDK : February 13th, 2013-03:43
What a great post, Nicolas. Also the way yuo put it in context. Thank you. I absolutely agree, this is MY favorite of all the watches, Ive seen pictures of, from this year. Very, very strong and coherent design. Simpler but more elegant. i hope the JLC de... 

880 pieces is quite a lot, though. I am sure you will find one easily.

 
 By: amanico : February 13th, 2013-03:46
Even if they may sell fast... This MUT 39 Jubilé shows some mature taste, here. Best my friend, and thanks for your input. Nicolas

Youre right, but

 
 By: ChristianDK : February 13th, 2013-03:54
This watch seems so well done, it should be in the regular collection, IMO :-) I will se if I can try one on somewhere. Thank you again my friend, for a wonderful post Best Christian

Did you get a wrist shot?

 
 By: ChristianDK : February 13th, 2013-03:46
I would love to see how it sits on the wrist with is very special proportions. Thank you again for an other outstanding post Best Christian

How could you not ;-)

 
 By: ChristianDK : February 13th, 2013-03:58
You held the watch of the year, and you forgot to try it on? ;-) LOL Best, my friend Christian

Wonderful survey, terrific pictures, and a truly

 
 By: SteveG : February 13th, 2013-13:28
desirable watch! I suspect that an additional 5mm diameter is not what I need on My wrist, but as a modern-sized packaging for this fabulous movement, it seems that JLC has succeeded spectacularly. Not only is the watch just gorgeous, but if I am reading ... 

You got it well, Steve.

 
 By: amanico : February 13th, 2013-13:37
The ting I love the most on this watch is the shape of the case. And I have to say that I am deeply impressed, and pleased, to see JLC putting a lot of work on their cases, these last 5 years... Best, and thanks for the kind words, Steve. Nicolas.

I have mixed emotions with it (+a wristshot)

 
 By: foversta : February 13th, 2013-14:01
First of all, thanks a lot for the detailed review. I have to confess that I appreciated the work on the case which is very well done and far from being simple for an Ultra Thin watch. I was less convinced by the dial. Not by the silver grained background...  

Agreed that " 1833 " was not indispensable.

 
 By: amanico : February 13th, 2013-14:05
Thy could put it n all their watches, they can also avoid it. But I still think it is not a big issue on such a watch. Best and thanks for your input and wristshot, too! Nicolas

Finally..

 
 By: ocwatching : February 15th, 2013-08:58
someone identified what I could not place when I read/saw the photos of this great piece. Love the watchmaking behind it and the case material. But something didn't sit right with me. The indexes! a bit long...i understand the retro avant gard look..but i... 

My favorite from JLC's 2013 Novelties

 
 By: patrick_y : February 13th, 2013-14:39
My absolute favorite of 2013! And assembled by one craftsman within the Grand Complication Workshop! That's another impressive detail. Thank you for this superb post Nicolas, with the rich blend of history. A very holistic post that not only covers the wa... 

pure elegance

 
 By: tongKT : February 13th, 2013-23:09
Thanks for your review. This is one of the most elegance dress watch in my opinion. It would be better if the back were sapphire like Vacheron Constantin 's Historique ultrafine 1955. .

With the see through sapphire case back, it would be a tad thicker.

 
 By: amanico : February 13th, 2013-23:15
AND the Cal 849 is a small movement, so I still think that a solid case back is the good solution. Thanks for looking, and for sharing your feelings on that watch! Nicolas.

Hot stuff.

 
 By: Mark in Paris : February 21st, 2013-13:12
I thought I had replied to this great presentation -_- .... Anyway, this is an Ultra thin I like quite much. Especially its dial (with these beautiful double indexes at 12, 3, 6, 9). The case is nice too but on an UT it's not much room for design expressi... 

It was at the Paris Boutique three days ago, try your chance there.

 
 By: amanico : March 1st, 2013-22:23
It is even nicer in the real, and the shape and volumes of the case is a big part of its fatal appeal. Try to go at the Paris Boutique! Best, Nicolas

As on pics

 
 By: Mark in Paris : March 2nd, 2013-02:06
I could finally attend to friday's evening event and I could see them. This UT Jubille is as pleasing as on pictures: really nice dial, as I thought, I love the color,the doubled indexes etc . The one that pleased me a lot to was the Master Trad QP-Tourbi... 

More to come, very soon. As for the MUT Jubilé, it provides me a great feeling, each time

 
 By: amanico : March 2nd, 2013-03:59
I see it. Thanks for your input, Mark. Best, Nicolas