Chopard

Chopard has its own interpretation of such a classic, with several versions, in gold, in platinum and... In Titanium. This is the last one we'll see, here. 

The L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph in platinum was unveiled in 2021, in a limited edition of 20 pieces. It is one of these rare perpetual calendar chronographs which come with a manual winding movement, the Cal LUC 03.10-L, which offers a good power reserve of 60 hours, beats at the pace of 28, 800 vibrations per hour. It is a relatively big movement with a diameter of 33 mm, and a thick one, with a height of 8, 32 mm. 

These proportions have their importance: With such a diameter, Chopard could have gone for a smaller case ( 42 or 43 mm would have been perfect, in my opinion ), but a thinner one with such a movement height? 

The benefit of a smaller case? The movement would have been less " lost " in the case. It would have been more harmonious. Same for a tad thinner case, which is 15, 06 mm, here. I would say that 2 or 3 mm less would have not been too tough to get... But the big advantage is the legibility, here.

This is the major flaw of this watch. For the rest, it is sublime. 

The Chronograph has the flyback function, and offers the possibility to measure the minutes and the hours ( 12 hours ). 

The case is made in titanium grade 5, polished and brushed, which literally catches the light. With its short curved lugs, despite the generous size, it is not too difficult to wear it. My 17 cm wrist can easily afford it. And this is a comfortable and light metal. Good point.

The movement has all the LUC Chopard standards, with a double certification ( COSC and Poinçon de Genève ). It is not only a Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, it is ALSO a Chronometer, and the level of finishings and decoration is very high, with the traditional techniques such as perlage, anglages, with beveled countersinks. This is a movement we well know, here, as the base was used for our PuristS Edition Chronograph.

The perpetual calendar is complete, with the day, the date, the months, the leap years, the day and night indicator and the moonphase. 

The dial? Eye catching. The plate is in white gold, receiving a hand guilloché " soleillé " in a sublime anthracite hue. The rhodium plated arrow shaped indices are superb, too. And I am a big fan of these " Fusée " hands. I still don't understand why these hands have some luminova, though. 

At a bit more than 80, 000 Euros, it is not a cheap watch, for sure, but almost a bargain, compared to the two stars of the category, from Patek or Vacheron. 

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best.

Nicolas

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