Jaeger-LeCoultre

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My view on the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin SQ

Nicolas presented this watch several weeks ago:
jlc.watchprosite.com

I propose to give you my comments.

The Grande Reverso Ultra Thin SQ (Skeleton) belongs to the category  of these watches you  must see to appreciate the subtlety. I didn't have  the chance to manipulate during the SIHH 2012, I had discovered it through the press release and I was at that time disappointed by it. In fact, I made two main criticisms:

 * the first one was the use of an enlarged case (46 x 27 mm) for this new interpretation of the Reverso skeleton. Because of the bigger size, Jaeger-Lecoultre had to put a sort of rectangular grey gold frame acting as a link between the movement and the case.
 * the second one was related to the style of the squelettage that I found too traditional and baroque especially at a time when the competitors tried to differentiate themselves by a more contemporary and stylized approach of this decorative art of the movements.





After having seen and handled this Grande Reverso, I changed my point of view mainly because it is characterized by an overall consistency.

First of all, I consider the Reverso as a watch which is ideally suited to the squelettage work. In addition to being able to easily enjoy both sides of the movement without removing it from the wrist, the presence of the solid backcase avoids the unpleasant sensation related to the vision of the hairs. To make a long story short, the  features of the Reverso case are ideal for such watchmaking art.

Then, if the white gold case of this Grande Reverso case is enlarged, its main characteristic is its thinness because its total height  is only exceeding 7 mm by a hair which is a remarkable achievement given the complexity of its construction. This extremely slender side reinforces the visual delicacy of the watch and hopefully decreases the perception of size by reducing the volume.





Then Jaeger-Lecoultre worked with  intelligence the harmony of colors. The frame plays a very important role in this context. Side dial, the translucent blue enamel creates a perfect combo with the blued hands and screws without forgetting the quality of the frame engraving. The bridges, the gears, the wheels, the jewels, the balance wheel define a range of colours which combine all together and allow  to make stand out the details related to the architecture of the movement and the work of he squelettage. Thanks to its twelve sections, the frame is also a support of the indexes simplifying the reading of time.  Bridges side, the translucent enamel is no longer present which gives a very different movement appearance even if the decorative technique is obviously the same.

The 849RSQ movement has been created from the 849 which is a round movement notably known today for its use in the Master Ultra Thin 38. The 849RSQ is more than a skeletonized version of the 849. In addition to its adaptation to get a rectangular shape, it displays a swan-neck regulator creating a beautiful effect in this complex atmosphere. Performance of the 849RSQ movement is similar with the 849 one with a 3hz frequency and a 35 hours power reserve. This power reserve may seem short, but it is large enought with a daily winding. And winding this watch everyday is a true touch and visual pleasure.





But the greatest asset of this Grande Reverso is undoubtedly the very high quality of the finishings. The subtle art of the squelettage must not suffer any mediocrity and Jaeger-Lecoultre was able to take up the challenge by offering a spectacular result. Despite the delicacy of the base movement, the workshop which was in charge of the successive steps leading to this spectacular outcome demonstrated a great mastery as some details show it. The beauty of the movement can be initially observed initially at several centimetres without the magnifying glass. Jaeger-Lecoultre proposes a real watchmaking lace, a knot of bridges which look similar to wires. But that's not all: even the smallest surface is decorated with engraved arabesques that enhance the refined side of the movement. And very strangely, despite this amount of details, this complexity, the result doesn't  seem too "rococo". I think that the case thanks to its geometric aspect counterbalances this tangle and sets a very nice balance. Bridges side, the frame extends the decoration of the movement without aesthetically overloading it.





One of the main problems of skeleton watches is the way the barrel is decorated and Jaeger-Lecoultre used its opening to discretely insert 3 times the logo of the Manufacture. The idea is excellent because beautiful to the eye, not ostentatious and hiding  a large part of the mainspring.





On the wrist, the Grande Reverso skeleton is a real treat. I found the size ideal for my wrist. The movement does not appear to be boxed in and breathes enough despite the frame. And... what a pleasure to be able to take advantage of each side of the movement without having to remove the watch! Reading time is easy thanks to the indexes of the frame and the blue hands give sufficient contrast.





I was very seduced by this watch. If today my heart moves more towards more geometrical, more contemporary squelettages, I do not remained insensitive in front of  the quality of the work carried out by the Jaeger-Lecoultre team: this festival of engraving, bevelling, chamfering reminds us that Jaeger-Lecoultre is not only an technically innovative Manufacture. It is also a Manufacture that completely master this decorative dimension which puts the world of high horlogerie in another dimension, the dimension of excellence.

The Grande Reverso  Ultra Thin skeleton is available in a LE of 50 pieces.

Thanks a lot to the teams of Jaeger-Lecoultre Belgium and of de Greef boutique for the time they spent with me.

Fx

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