Master 8 Days Perpetual skeleton: Rose Gold or Platinum?

Sep 19, 2010,00:52 AM
 




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Some here wanted to see more pictures of the 8 Days Perpetual skeleton, as to be able to fully appreciate the combination of the ruthenium dial with the white or the colored case.

I won't denounce anyone, he will perfectly do it by himslef...

smile

As an introduction to this marvel, here is a brief summary of the characteristics of this watch:

- Comfortable yet harmonious proportions of the case which is 41, 5 mm big and 11, 8 mm thick.

- Complete, not to say exhaustive perpetual calendar informations: Day, Date, Month, Year, Moonphase, " danger zone " and day night indication, power reserve indicator ( 8 Days ).

- Easy setting of the perpetual calendar datas, by pushing one corrector located at 8'o clock, which synchronizes all the informations.

- A movement, the Cal 876 SQ, which receives an original and very appealing decoration and finishing.

- An aesthetical and functional defy: offering a correct legibility of all the perpetual calendar informations on a skeleted dial.

2 versions saw the light: The Platinum ( 100 pieces ), in 2007, and, for the 175th Anniversary of the brand, in 2008, the Rose Gold ( 175 pieces ).

Both are sharing the same degree of sophisitcation, as they receive the same treatment for their movement, but, due to the different metal and color of the case, each of them offers a different perspective, and shows their own character.

Let's focus on the Rose Gold version, as I already posted many pictures of the Platinum one:

The dial side and the back side are built upon an " aesthetical " concept, the Planisphere.



As you know, the planisphere is an important symbol of JLC History, which inspired the Grande Maison for some important clocks and watches.

What is on the case back of the Géomatic and / or the Geophysic?



What do we have on the latest Master Memovox and Chronograph case back?



A powerful symbol of Universality, Trips, Adventures, Discoveries.

Here, the symbol is also the support, the base of the movement.

All the longitude and latitude lines of the planisphere are converging to the balance wheel, offering some harmony to this complex design.

This is an endless play of light, shapes, levels, angles, transparency.

This is not a movement anymore, this is a Masterpiece.





Not only the mainplate, but also all the bridges are taking benefit of this concept, as you can see on these photos.

More, all the parts of the movement are decorated with great care.

The planisphere is naturally suggesting Earth,

But, if you have a deeper look at the dial, you will see some celestial details.

The sun, moon and stars are featuring, of course, on the day / night and moonphase indicators, but not only there.

Look at the wheel just under the transparent Date disk...Isn't it shaped as a sun?

Here, the platinum version:



Aren't the transparent disks looking like satellites?

Some of these celestial details also appear on the case back side, as we'll see a bit further.

Back to the dial, the outer part is like detached, almost floating with the golden applied indexes and numbers which reinforce this feeling.

As the rest of the dial, this " ring " is ruthenium finished.

The hand finish is important on this watch:

The bevelling, the sunburst on some pieces like the ratchet wheel, the nickel plated and rodhium gear wheels are a few examples.

Another nice chromatic detail is the finish of the screws, which, in this case aren't heated blue, but nickel plated ( on the platinum ) or golden ( on the rose gold version ) , and contrast with the dark ruthenium skeleted dial in a very elegant way, bringing some sparks of Life in this beautiful but dark universe.





The back of the watch is simpler, dare I say...Calmer, at first sight, compared to the ton of details on the dial side.

A star, with its 12 " arms " on the top of the 2 barrels... And the hour wheel, ratchet wheel and winding wheel are like some small suns, with their dedicated finish!



The Planisphere, here, explodes in all its beauty and simplicity.

There is nothing else to do than to contemplate, and admire it, any information being futile.

A pure work of Art, which requires 2 months for each movement!



That being said, we didn't answer to the original question: Rose Gold or Platinum?

As always, both are very tempting, and it really be a matter of taste.

Let's just say that each of them has its own character.

The Rose Gold is certainly warmer than the more understated ( if I can say that... ) Platinum.

The contrast between the dial and the case is more pronounced on the Rose Gold, obvioulsy, when we play a more discrete chromatic partition with the Platinum.

May I say that the Rose Gold looks more Classic while the Platinum is more modern?





Is a version more legible than another?

To read the time is maybe easier on the rose gold perpetual calendar, due to the bigger contrast between the ruthenium dial and the rose gold minute and hour hands.

But when we compare the reading of all the perpetual calendar informations, at the exception of the moonphase which is golden, I don't see any valuable difference, personally.

Now another question is about the legibility of this perpetual calendar...

I'd say that it is not more nor less legible than another perpetual calendar.

It may be more legible due to the larger, bigger discs / subdials than on all the other perpetual calendars, and also because JLC used a clear zone to enhance the day, date and month, as shown here:



It may also be less legible due to the fact that the informations are .... let's say ..." sunk " in the skeleton dial, so the eye is a bit lost in front of so many beautiful details, compared to other much simpler dials.

But once you get used to read the calendar, things are much easier.

Therefore, is that so important on such a watch?

I mean, does Art need to be functionnal?

Food for thought, and for some interesting discussions...

Anyway, I love a lot this modern skeletonisation, maybe more than the traditional, which is more mannered, baroque, like on the Reverso platinum Nr 1, for example:



Don't you want to see more JLC pieces with this level of finish?

I, for one, say YES!



Looking forward to reading your thoughts and comments,

Best.

Nicolas.

This message has been edited by amanico on 2010-09-20 07:27:02 This message has been edited by amanico on 2010-09-20 07:36:20 This message has been edited by amanico on 2010-09-22 23:15:41


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Thanks a lot for the review. My fav is the Platinum one.

 
 By: foversta : September 19th, 2010-01:48
I think that the platinum color works better here with the see-through dial. A classic watch... with a very original presentation. Thanks for the gorgeous pics. Fr.Xavier

Tend do agree.

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-22:28
Somewhat, I feel the platinum version is maybe more " aerian "... Love the discrete contrast between the light color of the squeletted dial and the case. But I'm a bit biased, as I'm a non colored metal adept. Best, Nicolas

Platinum

 
 By: respo : September 19th, 2010-06:44
I say platinum only because I think it gives the watch a very contemporary or concept feel to it, which I think is rare for a perpetual calendar, especially a skeletonized one such as this. Legibility is a funny issue when we discuss perpetuals, skeletoni... 

Indeed, Respo, this PC has a lot of assets.

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-22:31
A kind of " Modern Art' " vision of a traditional complication, ala MMR Titanium, but here, JLC went deeper. A captivating piece, for sure. Thanks for your very valuable input, my friend. Nicolas

Platinum

 
 By: maikeru : September 19th, 2010-14:30
Having seen both versions in the metal, I prefer the platinum as well. Seem more 'of a piece' and coherent (the movement blends, rather than contrasts, with the casing). This is actually one of my grail pieces (I'm of the school that allows more than one!... 

Well, Maikeru

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-22:38
The size and thickness are the same than on the A. Lecoultre 8 Days Perpetual, my friend. The special work on the dial and on the movement makes it loo slimmer. Quite unique, in this category. Best, Nicolas

You are so right...

 
 By: nwp627 : September 19th, 2010-15:17
..."This is not a movement anymore, this is a Masterpiece." Thank you Nicolas for those beautiful photos. N

Marie Antoinette would be jealous

 
 By: chaser579 : September 20th, 2010-09:19
Awesome timepiece. Thanks for words and pics. =:^{D>

LOL. Thanks, Chaser. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-22:40
No message body

the finishing is awesome!!!

 
 By: FanFrancisco : September 20th, 2010-10:21
i can say i like both, however when you are pairing them side by side, the one in Pt case looks more appealing, don't know how to explain, that feeling just came from my straight sense and personal taste! just hard to tell, my friend! stefan

It will truly depend on everyone's taste.

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-22:43
Some will prefer the RG, more contrasted, while others will appreciate the more " discrete " Pt piece. But both share an uncommon approach of this traditional complication, and that is an excellent point! Best, my friend. Nicolas

Both are great - but I would go for rose gold

 
 By: rafalbar : September 20th, 2010-13:38
even though I would normally prefer platinum or steel and I am in kind of contradiction with my preference I think rose gold one looks somewhat better - maybe the contrast between the movement elements and the case - any how more eye catching, on the othe... 

I'm happy you defend the RG version, Rafal.

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-22:47
As it seems the Platinum got a consensus. Honestly, I think the RG deserves some love and appreciation, too. It is just a change of colors, but the quality and the finish are the same. Best, Nicolas

You are killing me...

 
 By: ocwatching : September 20th, 2010-21:36
first was the MMR in RG or Platinum..now the Perpetual Skeleton?!? simply amazing...I need to hit up Seth at the BHB for a look the finishing is amazing... but if I had to pick (not that I will ever have these in my collection)..it would be the Platinum..... 

Well, that was not my purpose, my friend.

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-22:53
Yes, you should pay a visit to the B.H Boutique to see it ( RG ) or them ( both ) in the flesh. Not sure the B.H Boutique still has the Pt version, though, as it was a limited edition launched in 2007. But, as it takes some time to finish the movement, pe... 

Easy choice for me.

 
 By: dxboon : September 21st, 2010-01:34
Platinum all the way. The warmth of rose gold is nice, but in the long run I think the overall design motif of the watch calls for the colder, more technical-looking metal. Plus, I honestly feel that white metals are more versatile (personal preference). ... 

I think that the Skeleton 8 Days Perpetual is a modern piece, too.

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-22:57
So, like you, I have a preference for the Platinum version, and I totally understand the comparison you made with the Breguet La Tradition, which has a more classic ( traditional ) look. Best, Sister, and thanks for your nice words. Nicolas

Horrible,horrible pictures!!!!

 
 By: moc : September 21st, 2010-08:35
Here I am in one of my very few moments of freedom from work and here I find one of my favourite watches treated like this ....some horrible shots ..my friend!Horrible because now.....who will be able to sleep again? Aaah Nico I don t need to explain once... 

Well, I made this post for you, my friend...

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-23:02
So, don't complain! So, what did you do, again? Seeing both of them in the flesh, and being able to tae these side by side pics was an intense moment of pleasure, my friend. Happy to know that you loved them! Best, Nicolas

No Complaints here...

 
 By: moc : September 23rd, 2010-00:44
just admiring these beauties is pleasure and pain at the same time...... i-ll tell you soon what I have done,you might enjoy it too..... Thank you Nico. Mo

Craftsmanship at its peak!

 
 By: blomman Mr Blue : September 22nd, 2010-13:02
I think that this must be the product of some watchmakers’ wet dreams! Every little detail is nursed into perfection! And to base it on the planesphere… It’s like they thought; “ OK, how can we make them suffer the most?! ” Stunning pair, Vlad! Thank you ... 

Like you, I appreciate a lot this kind of exercise, from the JLC Watchmakers.

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-23:12
And I hope that we'll see many others! There was another piece which " killed " me: The Reverso platinum tourbillon skeleton. A pure marvel of transparency where the light plays around the Tourbillon with a lot of elegance. Which one do I prefer? Well, th... 

Thanks for the comparison Nico...

 
 By: Goh : September 22nd, 2010-17:16
Both are winners but, for once, I find the RG version more attractive as it adds some nice touches of contrast to the watch. Best, Goh

Thanks a lot for your answer, Goh! [nt]

 
 By: amanico : September 22nd, 2010-23:15
No message body

Great review, as usual. I enjoyed the reading. Thanks.

 
 By: VMM : September 23rd, 2010-02:11
It's automatic, every time I see this watch, Spiderman comes to my mind. Thanks Nico. Vte

Spiderman?

 
 By: amanico : September 23rd, 2010-02:33
Wow, Vicente, what a comparison! Best, my friend. Nicolas

:)

 
 By: VMM : September 23rd, 2010-04:46
The back view of the main plate reminds me of a spider's net. You know, my imagination is ........................... Un abrazo. Vte

steampunk vs hi-tech

 
 By: Hororgasm : September 23rd, 2010-13:47
RG - steampunk vs Plat - hi-tech but sadly, me not a big fan of skeleton watches, and if i am, i still prefer something like the reverso no1....and its, in your words, baroqueness

Classicism versus Modernism, Steampunk versus Hi Tech.

 
 By: amanico : September 23rd, 2010-13:51
Nicely described, Hororgasm. Agreed, totally. Best, Nicolas

classicism vs modernism

 
 By: Hororgasm : September 23rd, 2010-14:27
contrasts in terms of manufacture, heritage, dimensions and conceptuals in this case romanticism vs hi-tech...  

Spectacular contrast!

 
 By: amanico : September 23rd, 2010-21:03