SIHH 2009: The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Tradition Tourbillon with perpetual calendar!

Jan 31, 2009,08:49 AM
 

You've possibly noticed that I've been really appealed by the new Grande Reverso at the just finished SIHH. In fact another "Grande" appealed to me (I could add that many other "grandes" appealed to me and Nicolas during this SIHH, but that's not the subject of this forum smile  ).

 

The subject of this text is my favourite choice in the new Grande Tradition range. Apart the minute repeater with regulator dial, the other option is a Tourbillon watch with perpetual calendar. Surprisingly this watch is presented (at least in the press kit) as a premiere in terms of combination of complications for Jaeger-LeCoultre but if I dare remember the Gyrotourbillon 1 was already a Tourbillon with a perpetual calendar. Let's say this Grande Tradition is the first JLC watch with "only" a Tourbillon and perpetual calendar. smile

 


Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Tradition Tourbillon with perpetual calendar in pink gold

 

So technically this new Grande Tradition is indeed a Master Tourbillon calibre with an added obviously in-house perpetual calendar. But that's not just that!

 

You can see below that on the tourbillon part the first improvement is a new and much nicer design of the upper tourbillon carriage bridge. This rounded bridge is very beautifully finished and polished. This more classical design will certainly help convince that a more reasonably priced tourbillon watch can still be very beautifully finished, hopefully even those that so far have not accepted to see JLC as a top finish watchmaker!!

 


The new toubillon carriage upper bridge

 

Out of this new bridge design, the tourbillon is identical to the one of the Master Tourbillon calibre, except for one other exception strictly reserved to the yellow gold limited edition. This edition limited to 300 pieces adopts a new silicon lever and lever wheel. Silicon made its debut in a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch nearly two years ago in the extraordinary Master Compressor Extreme Lab, the first ever watch without any lubrification.

 


New silicon lever and lever wheel in a prototype calibre

 

If the lever wheel looks close to the lever wheel of the Extreme lab, the lever is quite different. The traditional Extreme Lab lever was fitted with black diamond pallets, while the new lever is made single-block in silicon, i.e. the pallets are integrated by construction in the design.

 


The blue lever wheel

 

The two silicon parts are covered with a diamond coating. The diamond nanocrystals are coated and then plasma polished to bring a smooth and hard surface. The resistance to wear and friction coefficient are consequently equivalent to half those of silicon oxide.

 

In fact a layer of silicon oxide is usually used to protect the surface of silicon parts from the formation of fissures when the parts are handled. But in the use of two silicon parts working together, friction and the wear of silicon oxide (SiO2) on silicon oxide are so bad that they cancel all the interest of using silicon parts. They are in fact lower than those achieved by classic lubricated materials. That's why JLC replaced silicon oxide by a diamond coating. Diamond coating is also more efficient to prevent fissures.

 


The new silicon lever wheel

 

With these new silicon lever and lever wheel the inertia of the components is divided by three. The silicon construction also allows a much better dimensional precision.

 

Again the losses due to friction are much reduced, achieving a friction coefficient of 0.08 between diamond and diamond against 0.13 between steel and ruby with the traditional escapement found in the Master Tourbillon and the pink gold and platinum Grande Tradition (and 0.16 in a silicon oxide on silicon oxide combination).

 


The new silicon lever

 

Obviously these silicon parts have to bring an advantage that must be measurable! That's not an innovation for the sake of it.

 

So precision of the watch must be improved. As a result Jaeger-LeCoultre has elevated its 1000 Hours label to another level, "1000 Hours Chrono". So far this series of test consisted in tests about water resistance, shock resistance, power reserve, smooth operation and last but not least precision. Specially for the silicon "escaped" Grande Tradition models the 1000 Hours tests will be complemented by new high precision tests on the model of the COSC tests but on finished watches and not just assembled calibres.

 

In the standard 1000 Hours tests, watches are allowed to deviate from -1 to +6 sec per day in any position. In the 1000 Hours Chrono tests, watches will be allowed to deviate from -1 to +4 sec per day in any position.

 


The silicon escapement fitted calibre prototype

 

So after the Master Tourbillon in 2006, The Extreme Lab in 2007, the Amvox3 in 2008, the Grande Tradition Tourbillon with perpetual calendar is the fourth version of this very reliable, more and more and very precise,  upper finished calibre.

 


Back side of calibre 987

 

This 8.15mm thick calibre houses 403 parts (only 401 in the silicon "escaped" version, the two jewels of the lever being integrated in the lever). The calibre is housed in a 42mm case.

 

The limited yellow gold silicon escaped version adds a built-in magnifying glass in the back to allow a better view on the silicon parts.

 


The pink gold Grande Tradition

 

The other aspect of this watch on the technical side is its perpetual calendar function. You will notice the thinness of the calendar plate that seems nearly melted on top of the calibre above the tourbillon.

 


The perpetual calendar

 

The perpetual calendar is quite complete, in the JLC way. It is also the return of an automatic perpetual calendar in the JLC range.

 


Tourbillon perpetuel sounds like a prophetic promise

 

Positioned as a watch respecting the greatest traditions, the Grande Tradition shows a two parts dial. The main part is a near pocket watch like sober and very clean three quarter upper dial with applied indexes already seen in the Grande Ultra Thin last year.

 

The lower part is reserved to enhance the tourbillon device, with a more mechanical look and finish, being in fact part of the calibre itself, and calling back the Gyrotourbillon 2 extraordinary finish seen last year! The best of both worlds? I think so!

 


A new case

 

The case is new, close to the new case seen last year with the new Master Hometime, with just a more rounded bezel.

 


The platinum version

 

So you've understood. I'm still not finished with last year's impressive choice of new watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre and already a few more sublime pieces are coming like this Grande Tradition. There are perhaps less new pieces I'd like to own this year, but these are big fishes that complement perfectly the offerings of last year.

 

We can also see how JLC melts more and more finely the most subtle evolutions of cases, indexes, finishes,….

 

The future is bright for Jaeger-LeCoultre if we watch lovers can see and admit those improvements. Jaeger-LeCoultre watches have seemingly never been better than today and pay the best homage to the beauties of the past.

 

Dje

 

 

This message has been edited by Dje on 2009-01-31 08:59:38 This message has been edited by Dje on 2009-01-31 09:08:53 This message has been edited by Dje on 2009-02-04 01:36:17


More posts: CalibresMaster CompressorMaster HometimeMaster Tourbillon

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Comments: view entire thread

 

Great report Jerome

 
 By: Velociphile - No longer in the building : January 31st, 2009-12:07
Thanks Jerome. I really appreciate these real life photos. It just looks so Vacherony it's unbelievable. Velociphile

Thank you tim

 
 By: Dje : February 2nd, 2009-12:22

Hi Jerome, once again a great report and fantastic photographs

 
 By: timerider : January 31st, 2009-12:30
of the movement and face details--bravo! It is also interesting to finally see the diamond coated silicium parts go into the watch movements. There must have been a long time to test these new parts in the integration of the movement and make sure the lif... 

Thank you Tim (the other Tim)

 
 By: Dje : February 2nd, 2009-12:26
Hi Tim, That's a watch you should put on your wrist someday. As you're a specialist of silicium, are you really expecting these advances to become the norm? Couldn't it be a cheap advance once largely implemented? Cheers Dje

To answer your silicon (silicium) question, this technology

 
 By: timerider : February 2nd, 2009-15:48
is licensed in several manners and having been in the industry of silicon, silicon coatings and high temperature applications for over 35 years ( I started during University) it is easily said that this technology is available. There is also very interest... 

Excellent Dje!

 
 By: DRMW : January 31st, 2009-14:24

Thanks! nt

 
 By: Dje : February 2nd, 2009-12:27

Thank you Jerome...

 
 By: nwp627 : January 31st, 2009-14:56
...for a very comprehensive report and for those beautiful pictures. N

You're welcome

 
 By: Dje : February 2nd, 2009-12:28

Thank you Dje...

 
 By: Rob : January 31st, 2009-22:07
great report and indeed, things seem to be looking BRIGHT for JLC... thanks again!!

My pleasure

 
 By: Dje : February 2nd, 2009-12:29

masterpiece ! [nt]

 
 By: foullis : February 1st, 2009-03:37
No message body

Thanks a lot Jerome ! Here are some wristshots !

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2009-05:50
Fr.Xavier...  

Superb post, Jerome

 
 By: amanico : February 1st, 2009-11:47
Like you, I was impatiently waiting to see the New Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon in the flesh. I love a lot the new case, which has elegant proportions, nice lugs, and very good proportions. The use of some of the technical solutions of the Extrem La...  

Thanks you for your pics Nicolas!

 
 By: Dje : February 2nd, 2009-12:34
Hi, You got the best pics! This watch is indeed truly awesome! Unfortunately it will remain a dream. Cheers Dje

I wish I were! nt

 
 By: Dje : February 3rd, 2009-01:46

A most beautiful...

 
 By: nwp627 : February 1st, 2009-15:54
...work of art but sadly way out of my financial league. N

Wonderful report!

 
 By: canonken : February 1st, 2009-20:38
JLC is on a roll, nice to see they are in the business of making a nice watch first, not a trendy toy with expensive parts.

Thanks for the report Jerome

 
 By: SJX : February 2nd, 2009-01:41
Ths Grande Tradition is one collection I want to spend more time with, to properly examine the movement. - SJX

It caught my eye straight away,

 
 By: moc : February 8th, 2009-03:51
I look forward to have the chance to see it live.Great report Dje I really love this watch ,straight in the wish list.Agree with Nicolas,the Pt version is the best.Any idea on delivery time and rough price range?

Range price

 
 By: amanico : February 8th, 2009-03:58
89 000 Euros for the YG version, and 101 000 for the Platinum, if I remember well... Best. Nicolas.

Thanks Nicolas

 
 By: moc : February 8th, 2009-04:21
Not as bad as i thought and.......finally not a huuuuge gap between the metals .This issue is bugging me lately....Anyway,lovely lovely watch.Mo

Thank you! nt

 
 By: Dje : February 8th, 2009-04:02