JLC SIHH 2014: Duometre à Quantiéme Lunaire 40, 5 with an... Enamel dial

Jul 08, 2014,07:56 AM
 



The Duometre à Quantiéme Lunaire was first unveiled in 2010, in two versions:

- Rose Gold, unlimited:


- Yellow Gold, limited to 300 pièces:

42 mm case, open dial at each side of the lower part of the dial, a permanent jumping 1/6th small second and a central second, both stopping and resetting to zero " à la demande " ( ! )

The Duometre à Quantième Lunaire has a specificity: While on the other Duometres,  one barrel is dedicated to the Time, the other is used to feed the complication in energy, on the " Q.L ", one barrel feeds the Time, the Date and the Quantiéme Lunaire, while the second is dedicated to the balance wheel to insure that the time and the complications will not pollute the amplitude of the movement, the Cal 381, which is, as you already know, a nicely finished manual movement, beating at 21 600 alternances per hour, made of 367 parts and 40 jewels, with a generous diameter of 33, 70 mm and a reasonable height of 7, 25 mm.

This is the concept of the Quantième Lunaire: The quest for accuracy and regularity, while it seems to me that the moonphase is not the most important part of the Watch.

In 2011, JLC offered a cool version of the Quantième Lunaire, in white gold, and a gorgeous  plain black dial

In 2012, JLC came back with a smaller case ( 40, 5 mm ), in rose gold, not limited, with a plain dial, grained and a slightly different case back:

 


Till now, my favourite Quantième Lunaire was, without any doubt, the white gold black dial version. First of all, I am not fan of these partially open dials, then colored gold is not my cup of tea, and last but not least, it is, in my opinion and according to my personal tastes, the coolest " Q.L ". Strong, but elegant.

Till now...

Indeed, JLC comes back with a very strong version of the Q.L: The 40, 5 mm, white gold case, and... Enamel Grand Feu dial!

If the white gold 42 mm black dial is the epitome of coolness, this new iteration is playing a most dressy card, and should I say it, the enamel dial enhances the classic- vintage- character of the Duometre.

The dial is difficult to describe, the words which immediately come tb my mind being silky, milky, suave, delicate, sensual, warm, absolutely not cold, but in the same time understated and hyper elegant, with a nice retro touch.

The discrete red accents ( losange indexes each 5 minutes, Date " 31 ", markers under 3 / 6 / 9 / 12 in the time subdial ), and the heated blue hand of the date echoing to the blue sky of the moonphase are undiputably enhancing the charm of this Duometre.

The Grand Feu enamelling technique  is as challenging as it is demanding: You have to deal with firing several layers of enamel, on the white gold dial, at circa 800° C, which requires a great mastery.

Then,  the surface of the enamel is polished, which is a dangerous operation as you may risk to draw lines on it, then to damage it.

Jaeger- Lecoultre told me that they didn't have too much waste in the internal production of their dials.

The moopnhase is different from what we used to see on the former " Q.L ": Here, the blue of the sky is laquered, while the moon is made of brass, then diamond-tipped, then covered with gold.

It is time for some pictures, don't you think?

The press release photo:


A close up of the dial:



 
And now, my live pictures:

 

 

 

 

Without forgetting that the movement is also worth a look:


A small reminder on how it works: The crown is used to Wind the Watch and to set the time, the pusher is dedicated to the date, and the corrector adjusts the moonphase.

One very small reserve, though. I would have preferred to see this version adopting the 42 mm case, but I doubt a bit, to say all, as a smaller case serves the elegance and dressy character of the QL better, when it comes with such a dial.

So, I am not sure, at the end, it is a reserve.

A last word, or good detail, this Watch is not a  limited edition, but due to the complexity of the dial, my guess is that the production numbers will be very short, enamel dials being incompatible with massive production.

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best,

Nicolas.
This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-07-08 07:59:01 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-07-08 08:01:34 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-07-11 09:48:54


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Great Report Nicolas

 
 By: WTA : July 8th, 2014-08:22
wonderful Model and I enjoy the design of the machine What do you think these photos in HONG KONG? :) Thank you very much WTA ...  

Well, I think it is perfect for your wrist. ;)

 
 By: amanico : July 8th, 2014-08:26
Who is this silly guy, in the background, taking a wrist shot? :) :) :) More seriously, the Suometre à QL Enamel will be my Asian Trip Part III. What's not to be madly in love, here? Best, my friend. Nicolas

charming Model from JLC

 
 By: WTA : July 8th, 2014-09:09
This model is appropriate in any wrist because the dial have many of the properties and color white,and have Suitable size As for the person is the background , I don't know, LOL... But i think this is my friend from Paris and named Nicolas ,is a gentlema...  

Thank you for the live pictures!

 
 By: alphabeta81 : July 8th, 2014-08:24
I have been looking forward to seeing them for quite some time! This is one of my favorite releases not just of the last year but of the last 5! Absolutely stunning and shows the masterful craftsmanship of JLC!

Don't you think it deserved a special treatment?

 
 By: amanico : July 8th, 2014-08:29
Now, it is time to fully discover it. And I am sure we'll have several other opportunities to discuss it. I agree with you, it is one of the hits of this year. A feast. Best, and thanks for your input! Nicolas

Almost ready to order it...

 
 By: Arie - Mr Orange : July 8th, 2014-08:41
....it's just too nice to let go.... PS the 40.5 mm is perfect in combination with that grand feu enamel dial if you ask me.

What I think, indeed. Such a dial deserves, in my opinion, a smaller case.

 
 By: amanico : July 8th, 2014-08:51
40, 5 mm is perfect. Best, and please, keep us updated! Nicolas.

Sadly the acquiring of this watch

 
 By: Arie - Mr Orange : August 11th, 2014-05:49
has failed due to an impulsive buy involving a Cartier (will post later when the Cartier rolls in). So no more budget for the JLC for now :-(

Why " Sadly "? If you didn't go for it, that is certainly because you preferred

 
 By: amanico : August 11th, 2014-07:00
The Cartier. So, no need to be sad, but to be glad! ;) Best, Nicolas.

impulse purchase

 
 By: Arie - Mr Orange : August 11th, 2014-07:21
So no I do not preffer it over the JLC, but the Cartier has got some very special functions which are uncommon for a clock. In about 4-5 weeks I can show you more

+1 on what my current choice has been: WG/black.. But if I look..

 
 By: hs111 : July 8th, 2014-08:55
..at these terrific pics, that one scores in more than 1 point: - the email grand feu - the diameter of 40,5, which I would prefer.. if I ever were to decide.. LOL ! - the subtle colored tid-bits ( with red 5m indices & else) - I like this version of the ... 

This enamel version will provide some nightmares to the black dial owners.

 
 By: amanico : July 8th, 2014-09:01
I think JLC is close to perfection, with this one... I still regret the wording ' enamel grand feu " on the dial. It was not necessary, in my opinion. Other than that... A dream piece. Thanks for your feedback, my friend. Nicolas

Question

 
 By: 4Js : July 8th, 2014-10:08
Does th date pusher advance the date and moon together, once you have set the moon independently? Thanks Joe

Very tempting.

 
 By: fernando : July 8th, 2014-19:21
The 40.5 case makes all the difference for me and who can resist the enamel dial! Luckily I managed to get a wrist shot of yours .... a constant reminder.:) Best fernando ...  

I think we will be many to not be able to resist... ;)

 
 By: amanico : July 8th, 2014-21:45
It works very well on your wrist, too! All the best, my dear friend. Nicolas

Beautiful, but...for me 41.5mm would have been better

 
 By: vitalsigns : July 8th, 2014-21:08
An awesome piece. I do have a slight issue with the case size since IMO the original Duometre dimensions are simply perfect. In this piece, I would have preferred the 41.5 mm size. IMO the bezel of the 40.5 mm case seems slightly too thin relative to the ... 

Don't get me wrong, I am very happy with the original 42 mm case.

 
 By: amanico : July 8th, 2014-21:43
But this is only because of the enamel dial that I think this is the right size. Generally, 42 mm for me, please! ;) Thanks for your input, John, much appreciated. Best, Nicolas

Fantastic report as usual...

 
 By: gensiulia : July 9th, 2014-00:07
...of this stunning timepiece, thanks Nicolas. i still prefer the Quantième Lunaire in WG with black dial, the most beautiful Duometre so far, in my opinion. cheers, chris

I will join this discussion soon.....

 
 By: moc : July 9th, 2014-12:04
I can't wait...... Mo

Call me old fashioned, but I prefer the white gold

 
 By: watchthatman : July 9th, 2014-17:50
with black dial. I think the placement of the subdials on the enamel 40,5 is a bit crowded. They either need more room to breathe, or there should be some overlap between the 1/6 second and the other two. Also, in the JLC photos the black indices and nume... 

Subdials

 
 By: Arie - Mr Orange : July 10th, 2014-05:23
seems to me that the subdials have the exact same lay out as with the 42 mm dials...(space-distance wise) anyone?

Same feeling here. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : July 10th, 2014-06:58

It wasn't actually that the subdials are closer, now that

 
 By: watchthatman : July 10th, 2014-18:43
I see it on something bigger than my phone screen. It's that we can see the outline of the subdials on the enamel, and there's no outline on the non-enamel 40,5, or on the white gold and black. This increases the breathing room for me between the top two ... 

Yes, now I see what you mean, with the white gold outline of the subdials.

 
 By: amanico : July 10th, 2014-22:41
And their absence on the black dial. This is the second thing I noticed on the enamel dial, the first thing being the... Enamel! :) Thanks for the precision, my friend. Nicolas

same here

 
 By: Arie - Mr Orange : July 11th, 2014-04:28
stupid Duometres

A 40.5mm case is nice for a change.

 
 By: BABKA : July 10th, 2014-02:39
But for me personally, I would also have preferred a 42mm case once again. Thanks for sharing your report and pics Nicolas!

Honestly, I much prefer the 42 mm case for the Duometre, in general.

 
 By: amanico : July 10th, 2014-05:13
But I find this Enamel to be a delicious exception. No doubt, here, the white gold black dial is a very cool version. For sure. Best, and thanks for your feedback! Nicolas

My impression on this watch...

 
 By: moc : July 11th, 2014-07:04
Well I have pros and cons.... I had the chance to see it again...

My Impressions...second try

 
 By: moc : July 11th, 2014-07:42
Well I have pros and cons.... I had the chance to see it again... It is a wonderful watch, really,the dial makes the watch in this case. It could be one of "the"perfect watches,where the technical features of the cal 381 (with all its marvellous merits)ma...  

Agreed on the wording. " Enamel Grand Feu " was really not necessary.

 
 By: amanico : July 11th, 2014-07:51
It is clear that it is an enamel dial. Like you this is the only Duometre I accept in this smaller case. The lunar disc and phase is a plus, I agree on that point too. Well, I thikn that for an owner of the black dial ,the dilemma exists. For those who do... 

I need enamel too :)

 
 By: moc : July 11th, 2014-08:08
Its a dilemma now... as this watch would require some fundings ,not just an exchange...well I need a lot of motivations... Next few months there is a lot of thinking to do.....that writing is putting me off though...enamel is class,elegance,understatement... 

I do hope that they will remove the wording, too. This is my biggest issue with this watch

 
 By: amanico : July 11th, 2014-08:17
But, I fear, not enough to not SERIOUSLY consider it... Best, Nicolas

wow, that's really beautiful

 
 By: donizetti : July 12th, 2014-12:47
40.5 is actually closer to my usual tastes and the enamal dial looks just wonderful. Could've done with less writing on the dial but that is not a deal breaker. Very tempting! Best Andreas

If you love the Langematik Anniversary, then you will adore this one. ;)

 
 By: amanico : July 12th, 2014-12:51
As for the tempting side of this Watch, I must confess that I Vladed myself. Best, Nicolas ...  

Do you have any fetish with no.5?

 
 By: Alex83 : August 6th, 2014-03:28
in your last picture the watch is showing 5h05 pm, 5 seconds and 5/6th of second, on the 5th day of the month.

Nice catch then! [nt]

 
 By: Alex83 : August 6th, 2014-06:22