amanico[JLC Moderator]
344640
Jaeger-LeCoultre SIHH 2014: Tributes To Geophysic, the Review.
Apr 10, 2014,10:54 AM
Geophysic... That is a name which sounds like honey for every Jaeger-LeCoultre Fan.
Let me fist sum in a few lines what was the Geophysic, to better understand the Tribute.
Born in 1958 to celebrate the International Geophysic Year, made for scientists and engineers exposed to strong magnetic fields, this Watch was also gifted by some Geneva Citizens to the Commanders of the USS Skate ( Mr Calvert ) and Nautilus ( Mr Anderson ) Submariners, who where the first to reach the North Pole in the summer of 1958.
The delivery ceremony, on the 16th of December 1958, mastered by the Rear Admiral WARDER to the 2 Commanders:
There were several Geophysics, as you certainly now: Basically, one movement, two references, and 3 different dials.
The most famous E 168, in stainless steel, yellow gold, and rose gold. 35mm big, amagnetic ( resistant to 600 Gauss ) :
Stainless Steel:
Yellow Gold:
Rose Gold:
The Reference 2985, better knows as the Deluxe, in yellow or rose gold only, 34 mm big, without the soft iron protection, so much less resistant to magnetic fields.
The three dials:
The last one was dedicated to the Deluxe.
The two others same for the E 168.
Two last important things to know on the Geophysic:
- The case back, which was very special, reminding that the Watch was made in honor to the International Geophysic Year; with this characteristic Logo.
- The movement, the Cal P 478 BWSBr, is an evolution of the 488 SBr, which is, itself an evolution of the 470. The 470 was housed in the Military Mark 7 A, the 488 SBr was housed in the legendary Mark 11, and had the hacking second ( which the Cal 470 didn't have ).
The Geophysic movement was, curiously, less finished than the military Mark 11 movement, but it added two things: a Shock Protection, and a swan neck.
The Mark 11 movement:
The Geophysic movement:
The Tribute is a long story, which raised many doubts and questions, for several years:
- Was it good to stick to the original size?
- Which version to choose, the E 168, or the Deluxe?
- Which dial?
- What movement, since JLC doesn't have any manual movement with the hours, minutes, and central second in their catalog ( at the exception of the Duometre, but this one also displays the foudroyante small seconds, and other complications, and is much bigger, too )?
- Does the Geophysic have to be amagnetic? a Chronometer?
- Sapphire or Plexy?
- Which hands? Luminous dots on the glass, each five minutes?
- What metal?
You now better understand why the gestation took a long time!
Let's focus on the decisions Jaeger-LeCoultre took for the Tribute.
1/ The cases:
Here, you have the answer to several questions. JLC favoured the E 168 case, for its stronger look than the 2985. A look, a character blending strenght and sensuality with these protruding lugs which " cut " the round case.
Now, the biggest problem was to go for the best size. 35 mm was tempting, but it would have pleased for a minority of us, the " extremists ".
40 mm would have been too big, and maybe a bit boring, for this Watch.
Jaeger-Lecoultre took the decision to go for a compromise, with a 38, 5 mm case. Which is already big, despite what you can think when reading 38, 5 mm, for a good reason: The important aperture of the dial. The Watch looks much bigger than it is, in reality.
You will find the same characteristic lugs than on the Vintage.
The screw in case back bears the planisphere, but in a more vintage look, clearly inspired from the vintage Geophysic and Geomatic.
You will find the small thin crown, slightly domed, which is a nice detail borrowed from the Vintage.
It is water resistant to 100 meters, which is better, much better than on the original model, AND amagnetic, as the Watch can resist to 600 Gauss, due to a soft iron dust cover, and a thick dial made of soft iron, too.
The cases will be made in stainless steel, rose gold and platinum ( From Left to Right ) :
The height of the case is 11, 40 mm.
2/ The dials:
Since Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for the E 168, and not for the 2985, the choice was limited to two dials, the so called " Cross Hair " and the more known and classic one.
The Manufacture went for both of them: The " Cross Hair " for the Stainless Steel and the Rose Gold, the more known for the Platinum.
These dials have a different character, but are equally superb.
Applied indexes and numbers,slightly grained texture, one, the " Cross Hair " has more presence, maybe, while the " normal " has a more understated appearance.
Stainless steel, or platinum?
One important detail, which has already been quickly mentionned, is that both dials are contributing to the amagnetism of the Watch, since they are made of soft iron, and are quite thick ( 1 mm ).
You will also notice that the hands are sword shaped, like on the original, even if it is very probable that Dauphine hands were also mounted on the E 168. But on the Tribute, JLC opted for the Swords, and filled them with a dark yellow luminova, to give some contrast and life to the dial.
One hint on the nature of the movement, the choice of the word " Geophysic " rather than " Chronometer " on the dials... Which means that we are not in front of a Chronometer. But we'll come back to that when we focus on the movement.
The rose gold is naturally warmer, the contrast is more evident, with an additional touch of class.
Stainless Steel, or Rose Gold?
On the " Cross Hair " you have these numbers " 5 / 10 / 15 / 20 .... 60 " which are very coherent with a Watch which had a chronometric purpose, in my opinion.
Last, but not least, the small luminous dots stuck on the.... sapphire glass, each five minutes, are matching with the hands, another cool hommage to the vintage.
Two different characters, indeed.
3/ The movement:
Since Jaeger LeCoultre doesn't have a manual movement displaying the hours, minutes with a central second, the option was to choose between the creation of a new movement and an automatic movement, the Cal 899, for example.
The manual movement would have been a natural option, since the original Geophysic had one, but... BUT:
- How much would have the development of such a movement costed? What would be the impact on the retail?
Since it is difficult to make a movement for only one Watch, in terms of costs, the Geophysic would have been very highly priced. How many would be ready to pay 25 K Euros or more for a Re Edition of the Geophysic?
- We saw the evolution of the Geophysic movement, it was a kind of " Swan Song ", at an era where automatic movements started to have more and more importance.
In 1958, Lecoultre released another Chronometer, the Master Mariner, for the US Market, which housed an automatic movement, the Cal 476/ 3, and a few years after, in 1962, came the Geomatic, with, as its name suggests it, housed an automatic movement.
The Geophysic Calibre, at that time, was less refined than the 488, in terms of finish. The purpose was to give it accuracy, and reliability, not necessarily Beauty.
In that spirit, the Cal 898/1, housed in the Tribute, shares the same purpose and is very close to the Cal 899. It is reliable, well know, long time tested, and accurate.
It is not a Chronometer, since it is not " COSCED ", but the COSC on several aspects is less demanding than the 1 000 Hours Control, with a big difference: The movement is tested IN the Watch, once cased, while the COSC tests are made on the movement alone, NOT encased.
The Cal 898/1 is a modern automatic movement, made of 202 parts, beating at the pace of 28 800 vibrations per hour, 26 mm big, 3, 30 mm high, offering a power reserve of 43 hours.
It is the " Heart " of many JLC automatic movements, the base for some complications offered by the Manufacture.
4/ The straps:
Alligator for each version ( Black for the stainless steel, Brown for the rose gold, Blue for the platinum ), with a superb pin buckle, whose metal matches with the case.
5/ General thoughts.
The Geophysic was quite an intellectual Watch, at its time. A kind of elegant bad boy, a bit rough, with a lot of charm, suggesting adventures, trip, scientific experiences, but discrete, flying much below the radar.
Those who own the original know that. Nobody or almost will recognize this Watch, whose virtues and interest are hidden.
This is a Watch for Connoisseur, certainly not a Watch for show off guys.
The Tribute is in the same vein, even if it is bigger than the original.
The remake of this Watch was a quite tough and demanding challenge, in my opinion, as it is always risky to play with a Legend.
Like the original, the Tribute To Geophysic is a toolwatch you can wear in the most hostile environments, and its improved water resistance will allow you to swim with it.
I do think that aesthetically, it has the spirit of the original.One thing I would have preferred, though, is to remove the " JL " Logo, below 12 o' clock, and stick the " Geophysic name under the Jaeger-Lecoultre Signature on the stainless steel and rose gold version, to not break the " Cross Hair " design.
I would also have preferred a manual winding movement, but, as previously explained, would it have been realistic for the current market?
Here are some live shots, taken at the Manufacture, and outside!
Stainless Steel, limited to 800 pièces.
Rose Gold, limited to 300 pièces.
Platinum, limited to 58 pièces.
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best.
Nicolas
This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-04-10 10:55:48 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-04-10 23:25:41 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-04-14 07:25:58