amanico[JLC Moderator]
340700
Jaeger LeCoultre 906: THE other Chronometer from " La Grande Maison ".
Nov 24, 2014,13:20 PM
If there is a Chronometer we don't often speak about, it is this one.
Indeed, when we think Chronometer and Vintage JLCs, two watches are most often mentionned: The Geophysic, and the Geomatic.
It is certainly not because of its rarity:
A bit more than 3 000 pieces were made, all versions included, in stainless steel and in gold, which is much more than the Geophysic ( 1393 ), and much less than the Geomatic ( a bit more than 4500 ).
My guess is that this Chronometer, whose reference is 24000-42, came in the early Seventies, borrowed a particular design, very characteristic from this era, and it had to face, very quickly, the arrival of the Quartz, whose main purpose was accuracy.
So, even when the " Quartz wave " was over, and when the Belle Horlogerie made its come back, the watch nuts privileged the 2 sisters, the Geophysic and the Geomatic, to the detriment of the Calibre 906.
Nonetheless, this last Vintage and funky Chronometer, produced between 1973 to 1975, has some assets which would lead me to think that it definitely deserves a better consideration, or than just a " succes d'estime ".
Let's see all that in the details...
1/ The case.
Here, we're far from the natural elegance / class of the Geomatic or of the Geophysic, which are, in my opinion, timeless pieces.
We are totally immerged in the Seventies, with a solid block of stainless steel ( or gold, but I never saw one in the flesh, by the way ), with absent lugs, which contribute to enhance its massive look.
Macho, or funky, as you want, not elegant, but lacking of charm?
Not sure!
No lugs, here, just a system to " strap " an integrated bracelet which missed on the present watch:
The case is 36mm big, and over 10 mm thick.
Curiously, in the real, the watch looks bigger than it is. I would say a good 38 mm.
To be honest, I don't like the integrated bracelet, which is a bit too much in the funky register for me, but without it, I surprised myself to appreciate this watch, its macho case.
The screw in case back offers another nice surprise, which an engraving which made me think, somehow, to the military engravings, deep, clean and neat:
The inside of the case back, with the usual mentions: " LeCoultre, Swiss, Acier Inoxydable ":
The outside part of the case back, bearing these superb engravings, surrounding the JL Logo:
Another detail is revealed by the crown, which is signed, as it should be for a Jaeger-Lecoultre from this era:
2/ The dial:
The dial is a paradox in itself... On such a rough, strong and macho watch, I would have expected something less refined.
When I had a first and quick look at it, I immediately thought about the parquetry we have in some high end appartments, called " Versailles ". with each of the 4 sections of the dial going in their own direction, but all converging to the centre of the dial.
This " chevron " design is literally catching the light, and provides an interesting, not to say captivating appeal.
The play of light is obvious on this picture:
All the minute indexes are painted, longer each 5 minutes, and ponctuated by a tritium dot.
At 6 / 9 and 12 o'clock, you have a square applied base, bearing the appropriate hour numbers, while the Date is located at 3, to not ruin the symmetry of the dial.
No mention of the Chronometer on the dial, only on the case back, nothing else than the Jaeger Lecoultre Signature, and the usual mention " T Swiss Made T " at 6 o' clock.
Some macros on the linen finish of the dial:
The minute and hour hands are baton shaped with some luminous material ( tritium ) on the third part of their extremity, while the second hand is darker and " lancette " style.
On this example, the date is white on black, while I saw others with the black date on white...
Does that mean that both are correct, I don't know...
To be complete, JLC used, as for the Polaris II and the Snowdrop, a synthetic sapphire, typical of the watches of the brand from the beginning of the Seventies.
3/ The movement.
The Geophysic movement, the Cal P 478 BWSBr is still considered as a superb and very interesting one.
The Cal K 881 G of the Geomatic was slightly finished, but interestingly decorated.
The Cal 906 is another story... Here, no particular decoration nor finish,I would even say no finish at all...
It is 28 mm big, 4, 65 mm high ( which is not too thick, by the way ) 21 jewels automatic movement.
It beats at 28 800 alternances per hour, which is one of the technical differences with the Cal K 881 G ( 19 800 vph ), adjusted to 5 positions.
It is also a hacking movement, through a blue plastic lever you can see located at the right of the balance wheel:
Another interesting detail about this movement is has a quick set of the date by pulling and pushing the crown, a date which changes at Midnight.
7 000 movements. Like for the Geophysic, we could wonder why more movements than watches were released...
Like for the Geophysic, we may have the same answer to solve this arithmetic mystery:
Both the Cal P 478 BWSBr and the Cal 906 were delivered to Vacheron Constantin, which, after some work on the finish, installed them in their famous Chronometre Royal.
As for the Calibre 906, this is not the only explanation, though.
Indeed, the Cal 906 was also housed on other JLC watches, the Ref 24 001 and 24 002, as you can see on these documents which were provided to me by the Heritage Gallery, so we had a total of:
Ref 24000: 520 pieces, in stainless steel, only.
Ref 24001: 105 pieces in yellow gold, and 1050 in stainless steel.
Ref 24002: 234 watches in yellow gold, and 1151 in stainless steel.
So, a total of 3060 Cal 906 housed in JLC watches.
The MM Ref 24 000 :
The MM Ref 24 001:
The MM Ref 24 002 ( Day Date ) :
And a last family picture, found in the 1975 JLC Catalog:
Please note that I didn't see all the 24000 / 24001 / 24002, and I am not sure ALL of the watches from these references were Chronometers. That would be an interesting point to discuss.
Conclusion:
I would say that, as many watches, this is a timekeeper to see in the flesh before definitely judging it.
Would it be a first choice, certainly not, as the Geomatic, and, of course, the Geophysic are better examples in terms of aesthetics and movements.
But, for the avid collector of JLC Chronometers, this is an unavoidable target, which will deliver its charm and interest to the one who pay some attention and real appreciation to it.
Looking forward to reading your thoughts and comments,
Best.
Nicolas.
This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-11-24 13:20:54 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-11-27 23:16:02